Owners Manual

This page is an automatic translation of the paperback owners manual that was provided with the Omega 30.

Table of Contents

Engine

The Omega comes standard with a Yanmar engine, manufactured in Japan. The engine comes with an instruction manual that explains it in more detail. Read it carefully before starting the engine for the first time.

Before starting the engine for the first time, it is important to check that the engine is securely mounted on its bed and that all cables and accessories are properly attached. It may have been shaken during transport. At the same time, check that the engine and gearbox contain oil according to the instruction manual, which also specifies which oil grades to use.

For the inner bearing (packing box), outboard gear oil of quality EP 90 should be used.

Proper engine break-in provides the best conditions for a long engine life.

For the first start of the engine, you should run it unloaded at about 1,000 rpm for 15–20 minutes.

During the first 50 operating hours, avoid running the engine at maximum rpm or otherwise overloading it. Do not exceed 3,000 rpm.

The instrument panel is equipped with warning lights for oil pressure and temperature. If the lights come on or the warning buzzer sounds, it is important to immediately stop the engine and investigate the fault. If you cannot find the cause, contact an authorized service workshop.

When stopping the engine, the stop control should be held out until the engine has completely stopped. The valve lifter must not be used to stop the engine. Note: It is important not to cut power from the battery to the engine while it is running.

At low temperatures and when there is a risk of frost, the engine cooling system must be drained after each use.

Rigging

Before raising the mast, all sharp corners and edges should be properly taped to protect the sails. Don’t forget to tape the spreader attachment at the mast carefully, as a sharp gap can easily occur there.

When lowering the mast into the boat, it is important that someone stands below deck to ensure that bulkheads are not damaged during rigging. Also, wrap the lower end of the mast with cloth or similar protective material.

Once the mast is in its step, you can move the boat away from the crane — there is no risk of it falling over.

Next, loosely attach the forestay and shrouds. The upper shrouds should be attached to the front fitting on the chainplate.

Then place the thicker of the rubber cushions at the aft side of the mast. To fit the front cushion, attach a line to the cleat near the winch on the aft edge of the cabin top and pull it around the mast to the winch on the other side of the cabin top. By tensioning the line, it is easier to position the front block.

Care of Mast and Rigging

Regularly check that no halyards or attachments for shrouds and stays have suffered abnormal wear. If they have, it must be addressed.

Also check that no corrosion has appeared between stainless steel and aluminum.

Before storing the mast for winter, it is important to rinse the mast and rigging thoroughly with fresh water. Try also to flush thoroughly inside the mast. During storage, it is important that the mast is kept dry and ventilated. Do not wrap it in plastic or similar.

To increase protection of the mast and rigging, it is also good to apply a thin layer of paraffin oil before storing for the winter.

Winches

The winches on your boat are mechanically complex and naturally require inspection and service. Periodically, you should check their function and listen for any unusual noises. 2–3 times per season, they should be disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated. This is especially important if the boat is used in high-salinity waters.

Rinse the winches with fresh water regularly.

Before each season, disassemble the winches piece by piece. Check that all springs and pawls are intact and functioning properly. Wash all parts in kerosene and finish with a thin layer of grease. Remember: too much grease is as harmful as too little.

Preferably, use the grease recommended by the winch manufacturer. See the instruction manual provided with the boat.

Reefing the Mainsail

Your Omega is equipped so that the first reef can be taken from the cockpit without going on deck.

Additional reefs are taken in the traditional way. Reef 1 works with a long line running from the aft edge of the sail to the forward edge of the cabin top via the grommet in the sail luff. You should use the longer of the reefing lines for reef 1.

The line for reef 1 runs as follows:

  • Attach the line to the fitting under the boom so that the pull when the sail is reefed goes properly aft. About 10 cm aft of the grommet is usually appropriate.
  • Then the line goes up through the grommet in the sail’s aft edge and down to the block at the aft end of the boom.
  • The line runs through the boom forward to the mast and comes out at the underside of the boom.
  • From there, it goes through a block mounted partway down the mast.
  • From the block, the line goes up to the first reef grommet in the mainsail luff, then to the break block in the deck ring and back to the winch.

The second reef is done the same way, except that it goes directly from the front edge of the boom back to the winch. You must go forward and hook the reefing cringle in the sail grommet when reefing.

To avoid mistakes and damage when reefing, the boom vang should be secured before reefing.

A good tip is to mark all halyards and lines with a marker or similar to simplify reefing.

Don’t forget to practice thoroughly with your family so everyone knows how it works in reality.

Care of the Keel

The keel on your Omega has been galvanized since March 1983. Over this is a layer of shock primer and a layer of epoxy primer. This gives very good rust protection which only needs to be coated with ordinary antifouling.

Note! The antifouling on the keel must not be copper-based.

If you want to improve the finish, you can proceed as follows:

  • Matte sand the surface with sandpaper.
  • Wipe with a cloth moistened with fast-evaporating solvent.
  • Fill (polyester filler can be used).
  • Paint with at least 2 coats of VCTAR or Intertar. (Follow the instructions on the can.)
  • Finish with antifouling.

Launching

When launching the boat with a crane, it is important to use a lifting yoke or sufficiently long slings so that the gunwale strip is not damaged. Also, check that the slings are clear of the propeller and any log sensor.

Check that the engine drain cocks are closed and that the cooling water valve is open.

Before starting the engine, it is important to read through the manual carefully and check all points.

Before rigging the boat, it is important to go through the mast carefully and check that all accessories are present. Also, check that all halyards run smoothly through the mast and cannot get caught anywhere.

Trim Suggestions for the Omega 30

When the mast is straight in the boat, it is time to start tensioning the rig.

Check the lateral position of the mast by measuring with the mainsail halyard from chainplate to chainplate. Then attach stays and shrouds by hand.

Before you begin to tension fully, it is a good tip to pull firmly on the backstay so that the mast bends. Then put on the upper shrouds’ turnbuckles by hand. When this is done, attach the lower shrouds. Screw the turnbuckles until the mast has a bend of approximately 2 cm from the plumb line.

Sails

The jib is equipped with an oblique clewboard at the clew and should be sheeted to hole number 3 from the bottom in normal wind conditions. In strong winds, it is good to move the attachment to hole number 2.

When the wind exceeds 12 m/s and you need to use the large jib, it is advisable to move the sheet point out to a block on the gunwale instead of sheeting on the self-tacking track. The boat will then sail both faster and, above all, significantly more comfortably.

The jib halyard must be tensioned at all times so that wrinkles in the sail’s luff disappear. This means you must follow along and tension the halyard when the wind increases and ease it when the wind decreases. Don’t be afraid to pull — the sail can handle it!

If the jib flutters at the leech, adjust this by pulling the reefing line in the aft edge of the sail, not by moving the sheet point.

The mainsail is cut to fit the mast curve of 2 cm that we described earlier. The sail should be hoisted so that all wrinkles disappear. When this is done, you have a good basic trim.

The same applies as with the jib: follow along and tension or ease the halyard and boom as the wind changes.

The mainsheet traveler should sit in the center of the track when sailing in calm water. If the sea becomes choppy and the wind eases, it may pay off to move the traveler a few decimeters windward.

When the wind increases, lower the traveler to leeward so that the boat does not become overpowered.

Check the trimming of the mainsail by looking under the boom and up at the uppermost batten. It should be parallel to the boom and must not poke up to windward.

The Omega 30 is equipped with a partial rig, which means you should use the backstay actively when sailing close-hauled. With this trim, the pressure in the mainsail changes. The principle is: the stronger the wind, the more you should pull on the backstay, thereby bending the mast. Don’t be afraid to pull — the mast can handle it.

It is useful to mark the backstay line with a marker or similar so that you can easily see how much the backstay has been tensioned.

The Omega 30 has a mainsail that acts like a motor, and it is important that you trim it properly. A common mistake is having the leech too loose and sheeting too tight. This results in the boat becoming overpowered.

Often the opposite works better: tight in the leech and loose on the sheet. A slight flutter in the sail is of no consequence. not a problem.